Day two – Al Ain, UAE

I woke up on Friday the 19th of July with a loose itinerary planned; Then, I realized it was Friday.

There are a lot of things different here in the Middle East compared to where I grew up in the USA, and one big one is workdays vs weekends. Growing up, the standard work week and school week is Monday thru Friday and the weekend is Saturday and Sunday. Even still, on Saturday’s and Sunday’s most businesses are open.

Here, in the UAE, the work day is Sunday thru Thursday and the weekend is Friday and Saturday, and almost EVERYTHING is either closed or opens late (after 3pm) on Friday’s.

So, I jumped online and double checked my original plan to see if the places I wanted to go would even be open in the morning, and they were not. I reworked my itinerary to make the most of the day by adding in the two places Edgar, the man from the car rental company, told me about. I looked up the locations, wrote down a few basic directions, and headed out the door.

First recommended stop: Jabel Hafeet Mountain.

Jabel Hafeet Mountain is the sole mountain in the Emirate of Abu Dhabi, and one of the highest in the country. From the apartment I rented, Jabel Hafeet Mountain was about a 18- 20 minute drive to the base, and the drive up the mountain was about another 10-15 minutes. The drive to the top was absolutely beautiful, so I stopped a few times along the way to take a photos.

A Mosque sitting at the base of the beginning of the mountain on the drive to Jabel Hafeet

Jabel Hafeet Mountain Road was built in 1980 and extends for 11.7 km (7.3 mi) up the mountain, rising 1,200 m (3,900 ft). With 60 turns and three lanes (two climbing and one descending), the road has been called the greatest driving road in the world by Edmunds.com. The road scales the mountain and ends at a parking lot with a hotel and a palace belonging to the country’s rulers.

1/2 or so of the way up Jabel Hafeet looking North towards

Jabel Hafeet Mountain top Palace Estates

Desert view from the top of Jabel Hafeet Mountain

View of Mubazzarah Park from about 2/3rd of the way down Jabel Hafeet Mountain

On my way down the mountain I made a few more stops before pulling into Green Mubazzarah which is an oasis park at the base of the mountain.

My sweet little ride that made this entire trip possible, a Ford Figo

Second recommended stop: Green Mubazzarah.

Green Mubazzarah is a desert oasis at the base of Jabel Hafeet where water from deep underground bubbles up creating Mubazzarah Hot Springs. I’m sure this is a highly visited location in cooler months, but here in the middle of the Afternoon in July with 114 degree Fahrenheit weather, there wasn’t a soul in the hot spring and very few people admiring the park at all.

The park is huge, and the entrance to the park is free. I drove all around visiting the hot springs, the local BBQing area, the pond, the historical Mubazzarah Dam, the children’s playground, the “his” and “hers” swimming pools (20 Dirham to swim for one hour, no towel rental), and spent quite some time sitting on a park bench looking at the beautiful scenery with a bag of mixed nuts just wasting the day away.

Green Mubazzarah children’s playground (one of several)

After all, it was now only about 10am on Friday and none of the museums I wanted to go to opened until 3pm.

Before leaving Green Mubazzarah I pulled up to one of many water sources to fill up my water bottle. I carry with me a ‘Purewell Filter Water Bottle, BPA Free, with 4-Stage Intergrated Filter Straw’, so I can get water from anywhere and by the time it hits my lips, it’s safe to drink. This is perfect for camping, hiking and traveling as well as great for day to day use. If you’re interested, you can find one here: https://www.amazon.com/Purewell-Bottles-Integrated-Backpacking-Emergency/dp/B07JLS7VF2

When I walked up to the water source I noticed a swarm of thirsty bees hovering. Because of the heat, I took the risk.. as far as I know, I don’t have any allergies to bee stings, so I went for it.

The water was not cold, but it was much cooler than the air outside so every last sip was delightful!! I filled up my bottle a second time, and hit the road.

Before exiting the park I stopped at the “Waha Al Mubazara Cafeteria” which was really more like a convenient store with mostly just soda, chips and ice cream. I grabbed a small bag of trail mix and walked back out to my car. No sooner did I get into my car a white SUV driven by an Emirate man pulled up (I knew he was a local because he was wearing a Kandura), and he honked his horn about three times. The man from inside the “Cafeteria” came out to his window, took his request, went back inside, and then came back out with the items the man asked for. I was more than surprised to see this happen! In this kinda heat, that is some serious service!!

I drove out of the park and headed to Al Ain Oasis. Al Ain Oasis is one of several oasis’ in the region. This oasis garden embodies a three-tiered agriculture, characterized by ground crops, orchards and Palm groves. This system is vital for the self-sufficiency of the community and for the creation of the ecological micro-climate of the oasis. Despite the heat I opted to walk instead of rent a bicycle.

Single, double and family bicycles for rent. “Buggies” were also available for 20 Durham if you wanted a driver.

I walked through Palm groves, found the underground flowing water paths, and even stopped for an ice cold bottle of water.

One small opening of the natural water flow though Al Ain Oasis

Walls and camera phone timers are your friend when you’re traveling solo!

As I slowly gave myself a self guided tour, I was greeted by one of the five prayer calls of the day. I followed the sounds of the prayer and discovered upon a mosque. Outside the mosque were the hundreds of pairs of shoes piled up belonging to all the men inside. I stopped to observe the ritual before turning my way back toward where I had come from to go sit in my car and escape the heat.

One of several mosques within the walls of Al Ain Oasis during prayer time

While walking out of the Oasis, a car (only locals can drive their cars on the property because there are still families that own homes within it’s walls) pulled up and the man driving the car rolled own his window to talk to me. He was wearing a perfect crisp Kandura (this has become a very attractive quality to me in my 30+ days living in this region) despite the dust of the wind blowing though the Oasis. He asked me if I had seen the water and if I knew where I was going. He told me his mother still lives within the Oasis and offered to show me around. His energy was warm and welcoming, and given different circumstances, I likely would have jumped in his vehicle and gone for the adventure, but I was soaked in my own sweat and feeling pretty hungry, so I declined his offer and in the back of my mind wished I might run into him again before I leave..spoiler… I never did.

I got back to my car and began to head toward Al Ain Palace Museum, but I still had some time to waste before it opened, so I stopped at a huge mall I was driving past. It was called Remal Mall. It was absolutely beautiful inside although most stores were closed. I spoke to a few people who were working in stores that were open, and gathered that the mall was still relatively new so not all the stores were fully moved in yet, but also… it’s Friday. I went to the food court which was located on the 4th floor and there were only three places open to choose from. I opted for the local Arabic spot and housed myself another Chicken Shawarma. This one came with a coke and cost $8 Durham. It was different than the one I got at Volcano in Jimi Mall, although it was also absolutely delicious!

Just after 3pm I headed to Al Ain Palace Museum. When I arrived there the sky was beginning to turn a heavy grey in the distance, and the air smelled like it might rain. I didn’t want to get too excited, but I grabbed a hold of my crystal and wished for rain; rejuvenation.

Al Ain Palace was one of the residences of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the Founding Father and first President of the United Arab Emirates. He lived there with his family until 1966 when he moved to Abu Dhabi as the new ruler of the emirate. Al Ain Palace dates back to 1937 and was built in the traditional architectural style of Al Ain. Walking around the museum gave me an amazing glimpse into what life may have been like for the late Sheikh and his family.

*Swimming pool at Al Ain Palace museum. There is a canal that runs along the back side of the property and opens into an identical pool on the other side.*

A model of the Land Rover in which Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nayan used to tour the region to visit the citizens.

One of several reception rooms (majalis) within the Palace grounds

Sheikh Zayed and his wife’s bedroom within Al Ain Palace Museum

A child’s crib hanging in Al Ain Palace Museum

Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan’s own words… What you believe about the Middle East might not be accurate

As I continued to tour the massive grounds the wind picked up and the sand began to whip around hitting my skin like little needles. I decided to have a seat under a large traditional tent set up within the main courtyard and wait out he storm.

After the rain it was time to head to my last destination of the day, Oasr Al Muwaiji.

That quick thunderstorm made my little Ford Figo filthy!!

Qasr Al Muwaiji is a significant and authentic historic earthen building that bears witness to four generations of the ruling Al Nahyan family. From 1946 to around 1960 it was the home and diwan of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan and it is the birthplace of the present ruler of Abu Dhabi and the President of the UAE, His Highness Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan.

By the time I arrived at Qasr Al Muwaiji it was just past 5pm and I had been walking in the heat most of the day. I was extremely grateful to discover that this museum is mostly all indoors and air conditioned!! I read though the history of this magical fort and took a self guided tour though the current President of the UAE’s birthplace.

Exhausted from the day, but determined to enjoy one last historical place in Al Ain for the day.

Main reception room on the third floor of Qasr Al Muwaiji- A place to entertain and catch up with loved ones

Taking some time to relax in Qasr Al Muwaiji after a long day in the heat

Just before closing time I finished up my visit to Qasr Al Muwaiji. It was nearly 7 pm and I was exhausted. I debated stopping by a hotel to have a drink before heading back to the apartment, but opted to just go straight back, eat a crappy version of a cup-of-noodle that I knew was on the coffee table, and call it a night.

My next day’s adventure was the big finale…my attempt to cross the Oman border for a fresh stamp in my passport!

Be well. Be happy.

Day One- Al Ain, UAE

I woke up on Thursday the 18th and began to pack a few things I thought would be necessary for my trip. I knew the basics (towel, shower gel, shampoo) were taken care of through my Airbnb accommodation, so I just focused on what clothes I would be most comfortable walking around the extreme desert heat in while also simultaneously being completely covered, and a few basic snacks.

I said goodbye to the kids ad their nanny and walked down the stairs to catch a taxi to the Crown Royal Plaza Hotel on Yas Island where I had booked my rental car. I met Edgar and gave him all the identification he had asked me to bring. Because I do not have a local UAE phone number, I also gave him the name and phone number of my brother. He looked at the name, then looked at me and back down at the name.

“You’re Mr. Andy’s sister?”, he asked me.

“Yes, we have different surnames, but share the same mother.”, I responded.

“Oh, well what did we quote you per day for the car?” he asked.

“178.60 Dirham per day, sir”, I responded.

“Well, I’ll give you a ‘friends and family’ discount for this trip since you’re Mr. Andy’s sister. I’ll give you the car for 157.59 Dirham per day.”

Sweet!! We’re off to a good start already!

Edgar finished up the rental agreement and gave me all the details about the process of crossing the Oman boarder (which we planned for the 20th) He told me what fees to expect and then gave me two recommendations of places to see while I’m there.

“Green Park, it’s called Mubazzarah Park, and Jabel Hafeet Mountain! Make sure you check those places out!” he told me.

I told him I would and then walked outside to inspect the car and begin my journey.

As I drove away from the city of Abu Dhabi and into the desert I saw vast desert. White sand as far as the eye could see. There was hardly any traffic at all and the speed limit hovered from 120km/h to 160km/h. I toggled around with the radio and found plenty of local radio stations that gave me the authentic feel of driving though the middle east. As I got closer to the city of Al Ain, the ground began to change dramatically. What was once vast flat lands of white sand were now a redish brown sand that the wind had formed into several unique sand dunes.

I arrived to Al Ain around noon and since my check-in at my Airbnb wasn’t until 2pm, I decided to go straight to Al Jahili Fort and begin to site see. I parked near a Starbucks Coffee Shop along the border of the Central District Park, went inside for a restroom break and an iced latte, and then walked through the park toward Al Jahili Fort. I knew it was on the premises and figured it wouldn’t be too hard to miss considering everything I had read about it’s massive size.

The park was beautiful. The grass was well maintained and there were several beautiful water fountains to admire during my walk.

Then I saw the fort standing taller than the date palms and trees that surrounded me, and I walked towards it.

Al Jahili Fort was amazing! It’s one of the largest traditional forts in Al Ain. The different elements of its ancient mudbrick fortification provides a strong physical and visual link to important local and regional events in both the nineteeth and twentieth centuries.

Al Jahili Fort is of special significance because it is strongly associated with Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa, also known as Zayed the First, who ruled from 1855 to 1909. The construction of Al Jahili Fort itself is dated to have began in 1891 and completed in 1898. It’s date of completion, 1316 AH, (1898 CE) was inscribed on a wooden panel at the enterance of the fort, which displays the following two verses:

A door of goodness opens in this glorious chapter, Where joy and happiness reside.

The blessings of honour said, ‘Mark this house, A house of high standing built by Zayed bin Khalifa.

The oldest parts of the fort are the multi-tiered round tower and the old fort. These were constructed in size and layout for it’s defensive features. The courtyard and interior walls are dated to have come shortly after and were used to gather people and livestock during raids.

The entire fort was open for exploration, and I was the only person walking around the grounds admiring it. There was also an air conditioned exhibit within the fort that tells the story of Mubarak Bin London (birth name Wilfred Thesiger). This is a permanent exhibition that highlights the story of British explorer Wilfred Thesiger, known in the Arabian Peninsula as Mubarak bin London, who enjoyed an international reputation as an explorer, photographer and writer of travel literature.

The exhibition is filled with photographs taken by Mr. Thesiger as well as a 5-10 minute movie clip in which Mr. Thesiger himself discusses the details and experiences of his journey crossing the Empty Quarter to Abu Dhabi from October 1946 to May 1947. While I sat watching the clip I was offered dates and hot tea. It was a pleasant way to close up my visit to Al Jahili Fort.

Around 2 pm I began to walk back to my car to go check into the Airbnb. As I walked toward the car attempting to pull up the directions, my phone was unable to connect to any kind of signal. I popped back into the Starbucks to grab some water and use their Wifi to pull up the driving directions and was on my way to the apartment.

Al Ain is filled with round abouts instead of traffic lights. While I did find this slightly intimidating at first, the controlled chaos was something I acclimated to very quickly and, frankly, think I prefer over the 4 way traffic stops we are so accustomed to in the US.

I checked in with Elena and Victoria, my Airbnb hosts. They gave me my key and we talked for a little while getting to know each other. Elena is from the Philippines and works at the local university, Victoria is from Malaysia and works in real estate. They have been living in Al Ain for 4 years and have still not been to the places I was planning to visit during my stay.

I decided to lay down and relax for awhile. 2 hours of walking around in 46 c weather (114 f) will really take the energy out of you. Around 4pm I decided to get up and hit the Al Jimi Mall. Elena and Victoria told me there was a place there called Volcano that had really good local Arab food.

After a delicious lunch that cost me 5 AED (1.36 USD), I headed south to the Al Ain Zoo.

I arrived just before 5:30 and was told there was a bird show at 6pm. I entered the zoo and hustled towards the bird house to catch the show. I just knew it would be my chance to see some form of Falconry, and I was not left disappointed!! They had several birds of prey showing their hunting skills! Falcons, Eagles, Owls and Vultures!!

After the show I walked around the zoo admiring as many other animals as I could before the zoo closing time of 8pm. As the sun began to set the winds began to start up giving a slight breeze of relief from the days heat. I decided I needed a drink.

A true rarity! The white tiger was so desired for it’s fur that its species was completely poached out of existence. It is currently 100% extinct from the wild and now only a very few survive in Zoo’s around the world.

I could have hung out with this Penguin all day…

One of the worlds most beautiful creatures with an equally stunning background.

I did a quick search and found a Trader Vic’s close by. Considering my desire to feel anything close to home, I decided to head that way for a taste of something familiar. I had two drinks, enjoyed some live music, and then drove back to my Airbnb accommodation.

I showered off the day’s sweat, and drifted immediately off to sleep excited about the next day’s adventures.

Planning my first Visa run in the UAE.

Leaving for my first solo adventure in the Middle East

Our move from Yas Island to Al Reef was smooth and within only a few days we got the apartment cleaned up, furnished the way we want it, got internet set up and running and the place looking and feeling like our family home.

Never underestimate the power of fresh linens!!

Within a few days of settling in, I began to feel an internal nagging that told me I needed to do a little bit more research on my travel visa status here in the UAE. I had talked to people from other countries about the number of days they were allowed to stay in the country before having to go for a Visa run and the general consensus was 30 days, but for some reason I felt that I had read that I had 90 days (Americans tend to be quite privileged in our allowance of time to travel compared to other countries). By the time I actually got around to looking into it, I had four days before my status here would expire! I had done two visa runs in the past when I was living in Mexico, so the process wasn’t new to me; just the location. It was time to buckle down and do some research. Where would I go!?

I consulted with a few friends I’ve made here who have done plenty of these runs themselves, and decided that since I was limited on my planning time, making plane tickets a little too expensive for my budget, that I would instead look into renting a car and going somewhere that is a reasonable driving distance. I had heard about the city of Al Ain, an Oasis in the desert, and I had wanted to check it out, so I figured, now is the best time to make that trip!

Technically Al Ain is on the border of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi and the country of Oman. As I began to look up where to stay in Oman, I was coming up mostly empty handed for anything in the city of Al Ain. There were very few hotels on that side of the border to begin with, and the ones that were there were expensive and would require almost an hours drive to all the places I wanted to see in Al Ain. I decided to change my course of action. I would stay in the city of Al Ain on the UAE side, and cross into the country of Oman for a day trip to get my necessary stamp.

I began the hotel search again. In this search I found beautiful resorts with elaborate pools and high-end bars and night clubs. While it all was quite tempting, my pocketbook wasn’t trying to have a fancy vacation, it was trying to get my passport a fresh stamp to allow me another 30 days in the UAE.

So, I signed up for Airbnb.

Okay okay okay…. I know!! I have heard all the bad things too about how Airbnb is taking over cities and making it harder for locals to find homes in these said cities. I also recall being in Nola and reading int he newspaper that they had just made Airbnb illegal in the French Quarter because it had become such a disturbance to the residents of the neighborhood.

I wasn’t keen on supporting their community and network, but I was getting a little desperate and thought it would be a good idea to at least see what they had to offer.

I signed up, typed in Al Ain and the dates of my travel, July 18-July 20; JACKPOT!

I found a studio style room that had a queen size bed, fridge, microwave, work desk, couch and private bathroom in the center of the city hosted by two women who ONLY host solo female travelers and married couples!! Safe, clean, convenient… and cheap!

The front door of the flat I booked in Al Ain, UAE

I booked it.

Then I called up the car rental to arrange for me to pick up a car. That was an entire process on its own because the country of Oman requires special insurance to drive in their country. When it comes to having a rental car, you also need a letter and the registration of the car and all these documents that require extra steps to show that you are, indeed, allowed to drive that car across the border (apparently the cars GPS systems don’t work once they’re crossed into Oman and there were a number of cars “rented” that were never returned to the UAE so most car rental companies here don’t allow you to cross the border).

After about two hours (research and booking combined), my trip was booked to go to Al Ain and I could now breath a little easier and start creating my itinerary for when I get there.

Crisis averted.

Be well. Be happy.

Preparing for flight

In just over 24 hours I’ll be boarding a plane in Washington D.C.. I was lucky enough to get a direct flight from D.C. to Abu Dhabi. The flight itself is just over 13 hours, although with the time zone change, i’ll be boarding at 9:50pm on Tuesday and arriving at 7pm on Wednesday.

I have never been on a plane for more than 5 hours, nor have I ever eaten a complimentary breakfast, lunch, or dinner in flight. I also don’t think I have ever sat still for that long in my entire life.

I bid farewell to the last of my friends from my hometown of Harrisburg, Pennsylvania that I was able to catch up with last night, and will bid farewell to my family in about an hour.

My heart is warm with encouragement and love, and my brain is bursting with anxiety of both excitement and fear.

Cheers to what will surely be one hell of an adventure!!

Be well. Be happy.

Mexico

Taking a journey to a new and far away place is not easy for anyone. But some people never give themselves the freedom to spread their wings and fly.

The first time I opened my wings to a foreign land, it was 2014 and I went to Mexico. I had been working for an Insurance Broker in San Francisco, California, but was beginning to feel stagnant. I had a conversation with my boss at the time, and she told me that when she was my age she was in the middle of a divorce and that her parents had encouraged her to travel Europe for six months.

She never went.

She was now in her 50’s and it was still a life regret of hers.

She looked me in the eyes and told me that if I really want to quit my job and travel, that now is the best time to do it. I went back to my desk, typed up my resignation letter, researched for an apartment in Isla Mujeres on Craig’s List and bought a one way ticket to Cancun, Mexico.

Over the next few days I was in correspondance with a woman in Mexico regarding the furnished apartment I wanted to rent from her for what I thought would be three months. After consistently insisting that I wire her a large sum of money for the apartment before I get there, I began to have a few reservations in my mind on the legitimacy of the whole transaction. I asked around to friends for advise who also felt that it was likely a scam and that I shouldn’t send any money.

I kept with my mantra that most people are good, and I wired her the money she asked for.

A few weeks later I was saying goodbye to my friends and jumping on a plane to Cancun with my final destination being a small island off the coast of Cancun called Isla Mujeres.

When I arrived on the island of Isla Mueres, there was a man waiting for me with a cart. The woman I was renting the apartment from had sent him to meet me so he could show me to the apartment and hand me the keys. He put my luggage in his cart, and we began to walk. As we walked to the apartment he pointed out several places to eat and drink, and told me which beaches were the best beaches on the whole island.

He showed me to the apartment and when he opened the door, it was exactly as it had appeared in the photos. I was extreamly relieved. The guy handed me the keys, and told me about a blues bar down the street that I was supposed to go to if I wanted to get a job. He said the woman who owned my apartment also owned two bars on the island and would put me to work if I thought I might want to extend my stay past 3 months.

I dropped my bags and headed over to the blues bar. I met a man who seemed to be managing it and told him my name was Sarah and that I had been told to come see him. He introduced himself as Mario, and then he gave me 40 pesos and asked me to run to the tienda to get some limes. I had just started my first job in Mexico.

Over the next several months I built many valuable relationships with both locals and tourists on that paradise island, and eventually left the island to explore other parts of Mexico. I traveled by bus from Cancun, Quintana Roo to Merida, Yucatan and back. Then I flew to Villahermosa, Tabasco and took a bus to Tuxtia Gutererrez, Chiapas. I spent several days visiting different Mayan ruins, learning about the Zapatista Army of National Liberation, and hearing and seeing howling monkey’s. After about a week and a half there I took a bus to Oaxaca, Oaxaca and met an amazing couple who eventually took me into their home so that I could stay as long as I wanted without having to pay for a hostel. I fell in love with Oaxaca (and mezcal) and stayed for about two weeks. As my funds began to dwindle, I bought a ticket from Mexico City to San Francisco and promised myself I’d somehow make it to Mexico City before heading home, and I did. It was a very long bus ride, but after arriving in Mexico City I had about six days to explore Mexico City before my flight home.

All along the way I made friends and met people who were more than willing to give me advise on places to see, eat, drink, and dance the night away. I met people who provided me valuable knowledge to keep my journey going by providing me information on how to travel though Mexico most cost effectively. I even met people who took me into their homes and graciously fed me some of their favorite traditional (and non traditional) meals; and for all of that, I am forever thankful.

Despite what the media tells us, and what some people in our government try to feed us; Mexico is an amazing country with a beautiful culture and filled with absolutely kind and generous people.

By the time I returned back to San Francisco, I had been gone for 13 months and taken two trips out of Mexico to get my passport stamped. Through all of that time I felt welcome and comfortable around the native people.

I returned back to San Francisco with next to nothing, and so I began another journey, this time in my home city, of putting my life back together.