Day Three- Boarder crossing and Dhank, Oman

I woke up at 7am. Considering I went to bed around 8:30pm, I think it’s safe to assume my body was exhausted from the previous day’s adventure.

I looked at my phone and there was a Whatsapp message from my Airbnb hosts. The ladies had made a traditional Malaysian breakfast called Nasi Lemak, and wanted to share it with me! I was so excited and suddenly extremely hungry!!

A quintessential Malaysian favorite. Nasi Lemak features fragrant and rich coconut rice with spicy sambal, topped with crispy anchovies, crunchy peanuts, hard-boiled egg, and cool cucumber.

After a delicious breakfast I packed up my bags said my goodbyes. The days single goal was to cross the Oman border successfully and get a fresh stamp in my passport. I had done visa runs before when I was living in Mexico, so I had a general idea of what I could expect:

To be asked a lot of questions when I exit UAE. Wait around for an undetermined amount of time… perhaps pay exit fee’s.

To be asked a lot of questions when I enter Oman. Wait around for an undetermined amount of time… perhaps pay entrance fee’s and temporary visa fee’s.

To be asked a lot of questions when I exit Oman. Wait around for an undetermined amoutn of time… perhaps pay another fee to exit.

To be asked a lot of questions when I enter UAE. Wait around for an undetermined amount of time..perhaps pay for a visa again.

In each step of this process the typical questions revolve around, “Where are you coming from?”, “Where are you going?”, “What will you be doing during your visit?”, “Where will you be staying?” and “How long are you staying?”. If you don’t have answers for these questions, they tend to look a little suspicious..that’s the look you want to avoid when you’re attempting the border crossing for only a visa run.

I had decided that I would attempt my border cross at Mezyad Border Post. Of all the places to cross the UAE/ Oman boarder, I had read though several different peoples experiences that this one was pretty quick and easy.

Also, let me just clarify why I say “attempt” a boarder cross.

In my experiences, as well as the stories I have heard from other friends who had to do these “visa runs” to stay in a country for an extended period of time, sometimes a boarder patrol officer will decline your renewal because, by law, you must exit one country for 24-48 hours (depending on the country) before you can return to it. Other times you’re expected to have a bus or plane ticket to prove your plan to exit the country you’re entering. If the officer declines your renewal, you can expect to be stuck for the 24-48 hours necessary before you can return. This, of course, comes with unexpected costs for accommodation and car rental extension, and the most expensive thing ever, your time.

The drive to the Mezyad Boarder meant driving straight past the Al Ain Camel Market, so of course, I planned to stop. This camel market is the last souk of its kind in the UAE and is an excellent opportunity to see all different breeds of camels up close. There is also plenty of other livestock such as goats, sheep and cattle. As you walk around you see and hear traders discussing the price and merits of their animals.

It was about 9 am when I arrived at the camel market. I parked my car and began to walk around. My Airbnb hosts had warned me that the traders would offer to take my photo with their camels but then expect me to give them money, but they didn’t quite express how aggressive the traders could get.

At first I just smiled and said, “No, thank you”, when I was asked if I had a camera and wanted a photo. When that stopped working they took out their phones and then wanted to take pictures of me and with me. They kept saying they wanted a photo with “American Girl”, which lead me to walking around with my hand over my face telling repeating the two phrases, “No, thank you.” and “No, please stop”.

A few nice traders recognized I wasn’t there to buy a camel or get the best Instagram photo, and so they took me around for a “Camel 101” crash course. They were two men who looked to be in their 60’s, and they showed me the Arabian Camels, the Oman Desert Camels, Saudi Camels and a few breeds of racing camels. From what I could gather with the language barrier, they use the different traveling camels based on weight of what they plan to carry and distance they plan to travel. Overall, camels are amazingly resilient in the desert heat and so they have been used for several centuries. I also learned that some camels are a “smoother ride” than other camels, much like different breeds of horses.

The men also brought me inside one of their camel pens and let me bond with a 3 day old camel they had brought to the market. Despite it only being 3 days old, the camel was still bigger than me! After about twenty minutes I snapped one photo and took off to the refuge of the air conditioned car ready to get this visa run done.

Al Ain Camel Market

I began to head south with the radio turned up playing Arabic music I didn’t understand but still enjoyed and the air conditioning on high. I knew there was no need to look at any map, I just had to keep driving until I got to the border.

The drive was only about twenty minutes. As I got up to the boarder I had a pleasant surprise!!

Camels from the camel market crossing the UAE border in front of me.

As I exited the UAE I was asked to pay 33 Dirhams to leave, sure.

As I entered Oman, the officer began to ask me how long I was staying and where I was headed (exactly what I expected). I told him I was visiting Oman simply for a day trip and that I planned to go to the mountainside town of Dhank.

Considering my brothers status in the UAE, I felt it would be in my best interest to be honest about my intentions. I figured if they asked me questions about why I wouldn’t be staying longer on my way out, or why I had only been gone a short time on my way in, I would simply tell them about my brothers family relocating and my role of helping my precious niece and nephew get acclimated to the desert life (I’m not above pulling out some cards to help myself out a little).

The border officer looked at me a little sideways and asked me to park the car and go inside. I went inside and there were groups of men hovering over the counter. I figured I’d wait patiently until the chaos subsided before standing in line, but as I wandered around the office looking at maps and reading about the history of Oman, I realized the “line” wasn’t dwindling at all… In fact, more men just kept piling up behind the other men. Zero sense of order…so, I jumped right in. Neglected my personal space and held my ground until it was my turn.

When the officer asked me what I needed I told him I wasn’t sure… I was just told to come inside. I gave him all the paperwork I had and he asked me to pay 33 Dirham. I told him I had just paid 33 Dirham and showed him the receipt. He advised me that this was different, and that this one was for my travel visa… Ok, whatever, the reality for me is it is less than $10 USD, I can afford that.

Exiting the immigration building and crossing into Oman
And just like that, I was entering Oman

As you can probably tell from the photos, the Mezyad Boarder Cross is all under construction. I don’t know if that’s why people claimed this was a pretty easy boarder to cross, or what, but after only about thirty minutes, I was in the country of Oman.

The drive to Dhank was just short of an hour from the border. Because of the thunderstorm from the previous day, the two lane highway into town was narrowed into one lane for much of the drive. Sand-slides and standing water occupied the other lane.

When two lanes become one

I drove into Dhank and grabbed a cub of Arabian Coffee (it’s becoming my addiction since alcohol is such a chore to get around these parts), and found a nice spot along side a quiet road to stare into the mountainside and enjoy my coffee.

Mountains of Dhank, Oman

After finishing my coffee, I figured it was time to try the drive back again. If I wanted to return the car and have at least two hours to enjoy some drinks with my New Zealand buddies at the hotel bar on Yas Island, I would need to get movin’.

I did stop to take a few photos on my way out of town.

Ummmm…. Is that why this is such a safe region to travel?
In this region of the Middle East, families often times live in ‘compounds’, which are luxurious living grounds, likely mocked from the original forts built by the Sheikh’s. This is one.
Oman Family compounds
Another beautiful family compound

As I drove toward the Oman/UAE border I had to keep changing the radio station. No station was coming in clear except the reading of the Quran, and that was only in Arabic. It was then that I noticed a bluetooth symbol under the radio display. Really!!? I could have been jamming out to my own music this whole time!? While simultaneously driving 120km/hr and fiddling with my phone and the audio display, I managed to hook up to bluetooth and play my favorite playlist I made on Spotify, Turnt Up Ladies (If you have Spotify, feel free to follow that station of mine, it’s the best!).

The drive out of Oman was a little daunting. As I pulled up to the boarder crossing, I encountered the same officer who I had spoken to when I exited.

“Oh, only one hour you spend in Oman!?”, he says to me with a troubled look.

“I was there more than one hour! I took a whole driving tour of Dhank! What a beautiful countryside”, I say with a smile and a hint of over the top enthusiasm in my voice. He stamps a piece of paper and tells me to take it to the next gate.

Pulling up to the border post to exit Oman

When I get to the next tent I have to drive though what appears to be an x-ray machine and then I’m asked to pull over for them to physically inspect my car. Sure… no problem.

The officer asks me for my paperwork, and tells me to pull over into the parking lot and go inside.

Ugh…… again!? Good thing I have nothing better to do… Like drink an ice cold beer with a whisky on the side.

I pull into the parking lot and go inside. There are two ladies sitting at desks at the front and people sitting in chairs all facing these two desks. It reminded me of being at the DMV. I didn’t see anything that suggested I “take a number” or anything, so I walked up to one of the women and asked her what I needed to do.

“Just have a seat, we will call you”, she told me.

They’ll call me? I didn’t give them my name or anything… I guess the other officers must have communicated it with some computer or something… I sat in the back.

Waiting inside the immigration building to enter the UAE

After about fifteen minutes one of the ladies waved me up. She asked me for my passport and the piece of paper I was given at the Oman exit. I gave her the requested items, and she stamped the piece of paper and sent me on my way. One more step until I’m officially back in the UAE and legal for another 30 days!

Hoping to get though this next step without a hold up!

I drove to the next post and presented the officer with my passport and paperwork. He handed me back my passport. I asked him, “I’m good for another 30 days now, right!?”. He looked at me confused. I asked him again. He responded, “I don’t know what you ask me.”…ah, forget it…I’m sure I’m fine, I thought. I drove into the UAE.

As I was driving back I got a sneaky suspicion that something wasn’t right… I pulled out my passport to verify that I got a fresh stamp. I flipped though the pages. I saw my original entrance to the UAE on June 18th. I saw my exit of the UAE on July 20th. I saw my entrance into Oman on the 20th with a Visa giving me 8 days to travel Oman (must have been that 33 Durham I paid…) and I saw my exit of Oman. I didn’t see another stamp showing I had re-entered the UAE!! Ugh!!

I called my brother to tell him I was pretty sure they didn’t stamp my passport back in. He assured me that we would make the necessary phone calls and figure out what I would need to do next. He told me he had heard that sometimes even when the passport doesn’t have a physical stamp that the computer systems are indeed updated correctly.

I then called a friend I met a few weeks prior, who lives in Dubai and works for the Immigration Department. He told me a similar thing and assured me that he would get it resolved.

The rest of the way back to Yas Island was about an hour and 45 minutes. I rocked out to my Turnt Up Ladies radio station the whole way flying down the nearly empty highway going 160km/hr stopping only once to fill up the gas tank.

When I arrived back to the island I returned the car to Edgar and told him about the whole passport stamp fiasco I might be in. He pulled out a special light and scanned though the pages on my passport. Lo and behold, there was the stamp!! It was stamped with a very fainted blue ink that blended in way too well with the background of the pages of my US passport. Phew!!!

Crisis averted, yet again!

So, naturally, after returning the car, I called up the boys to meet for a drink at Stills, the bar attached to the Crown Royal Plaza Hotel.

The boys (Uncle Kelley and Chris) and I had some drinks and celebrated another 30 days!

And we celebrated!

I have a video of Chris dancing under some awning on our way to a neighboring hotel bar. If I knew how to post videos on here, I’d share it! It’s pretty precious.

So here I am again, home again at last!!

Well, at least for another 30 days.

I’ll plan my next visa run in advance… where do I want to go next!!? India? Thailand? Turkey? Philippines?

Be well. Be happy.

Planning my first Visa run in the UAE.

Leaving for my first solo adventure in the Middle East

Our move from Yas Island to Al Reef was smooth and within only a few days we got the apartment cleaned up, furnished the way we want it, got internet set up and running and the place looking and feeling like our family home.

Never underestimate the power of fresh linens!!

Within a few days of settling in, I began to feel an internal nagging that told me I needed to do a little bit more research on my travel visa status here in the UAE. I had talked to people from other countries about the number of days they were allowed to stay in the country before having to go for a Visa run and the general consensus was 30 days, but for some reason I felt that I had read that I had 90 days (Americans tend to be quite privileged in our allowance of time to travel compared to other countries). By the time I actually got around to looking into it, I had four days before my status here would expire! I had done two visa runs in the past when I was living in Mexico, so the process wasn’t new to me; just the location. It was time to buckle down and do some research. Where would I go!?

I consulted with a few friends I’ve made here who have done plenty of these runs themselves, and decided that since I was limited on my planning time, making plane tickets a little too expensive for my budget, that I would instead look into renting a car and going somewhere that is a reasonable driving distance. I had heard about the city of Al Ain, an Oasis in the desert, and I had wanted to check it out, so I figured, now is the best time to make that trip!

Technically Al Ain is on the border of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi and the country of Oman. As I began to look up where to stay in Oman, I was coming up mostly empty handed for anything in the city of Al Ain. There were very few hotels on that side of the border to begin with, and the ones that were there were expensive and would require almost an hours drive to all the places I wanted to see in Al Ain. I decided to change my course of action. I would stay in the city of Al Ain on the UAE side, and cross into the country of Oman for a day trip to get my necessary stamp.

I began the hotel search again. In this search I found beautiful resorts with elaborate pools and high-end bars and night clubs. While it all was quite tempting, my pocketbook wasn’t trying to have a fancy vacation, it was trying to get my passport a fresh stamp to allow me another 30 days in the UAE.

So, I signed up for Airbnb.

Okay okay okay…. I know!! I have heard all the bad things too about how Airbnb is taking over cities and making it harder for locals to find homes in these said cities. I also recall being in Nola and reading int he newspaper that they had just made Airbnb illegal in the French Quarter because it had become such a disturbance to the residents of the neighborhood.

I wasn’t keen on supporting their community and network, but I was getting a little desperate and thought it would be a good idea to at least see what they had to offer.

I signed up, typed in Al Ain and the dates of my travel, July 18-July 20; JACKPOT!

I found a studio style room that had a queen size bed, fridge, microwave, work desk, couch and private bathroom in the center of the city hosted by two women who ONLY host solo female travelers and married couples!! Safe, clean, convenient… and cheap!

The front door of the flat I booked in Al Ain, UAE

I booked it.

Then I called up the car rental to arrange for me to pick up a car. That was an entire process on its own because the country of Oman requires special insurance to drive in their country. When it comes to having a rental car, you also need a letter and the registration of the car and all these documents that require extra steps to show that you are, indeed, allowed to drive that car across the border (apparently the cars GPS systems don’t work once they’re crossed into Oman and there were a number of cars “rented” that were never returned to the UAE so most car rental companies here don’t allow you to cross the border).

After about two hours (research and booking combined), my trip was booked to go to Al Ain and I could now breath a little easier and start creating my itinerary for when I get there.

Crisis averted.

Be well. Be happy.